Inn Signs of England
by Esmerelda Weatherwax (August 2009)
This is the first in what I hope will be several articles on English pub signs and peripheral bits of interesting, but not necessarily useful, information.
Over 25 years ago when I lived in Dagenham I used to visit a pub called The Angel in nearby Rainham which is the next village east along the north bank of the River Thames. There is also a Rainham on the Kent side of the river which may have been founded by the same bunch of Saxons but the modern villages are not connected.
Rainham was never a port on the scale of Barking where the abbey was but there was a trading in livestock and vegetables and a ferry over the Thames (which remained into living memory, although that memory did belong to a very old man) which was of some importance in the Middle Ages as one of the crossing points for pilgrims travelling south from the Marian shrine of Walsingham in Norfolk to that of St Thomas a’ Becket in Canterbury. Once on the Kent bank of the Thames they could pick up either the road travelled by Chaucer’s pilgrims to Canterbury or one due east to Rochester.
The parish church still contains a mediaeval wall drawing of a small ship, a cobb. The pub sign for the Angel was a painting of this ship afloat, overlooked by a beautiful Angel with proper wings and hair in an attitude of prayer and protection. One week we got off the bus and it wasn’t hanging. In its place was a badly executed sexy cherub, leering through a pastel haze.
“What did you do with the old angel and ship?” we asked, hoping naively that it was out the back and wondering if there was room for it in our garden.
“Had it painted over” said the Governor. “It was old fashioned and dull”.
The pub went into a gradual decline over several changes of management, closed, reopened, has reopened again as The New Angel but just has a rusting bracket with no sign the last time I was over that way.
I had no reason at the time to think that this was anything to predict a loss on a national scale.
We know that pubs are shutting at the rate of 52 a week so far this year and we have discussed the assorted reasons here several times. The smoking ban, exorbitant rent and rates to the landlord passed on as high prices to the customer, cheap supermarket beer, a changing demographic, onerous bureaucracy are a few even before we hit the recession. I am just concentrating on one of the outward visual aspects of the traditional pub, the sign.
It started with this article in the Telegraph in September last year.
The importance of Pub Signs was raised again when they were voted one of the traditional icons of England as reported, again by The Telegraph, in December last year. This time the American born writer Bill Bryson said
“Traditional pub signs must not be allowed to die out”. He continued: "They are as characteristic of rural England as church spires and ancient hedgerows. The diversity of English life has been reflected in these intriguing and deceptively informative artefacts for centuries."
It is not always the case that because a pub has a fine sign it is also either a building of historical or architectural interest, or that it is going to be clean and comfortable inside, or that it is guaranteed to have well kept beer, preferable real. Plenty of lovely pubs have no sign or a boring one, although even if the sign is merely the name of the pub there is no reason why attractive lettering in appealing colours cannot be chosen.
However it is usually the case, and for the reasons that are obvious, that a pub with well kept beer is clean and comfortable throughout.
Only once have I found myself saying “I don’t care how many years this place has been in the CAMRA (CAMpaign for Real Ale) guide; the toilets are a disgrace and I am not drinking or eating a single morsel here!”
Some of the standard signs for the chains are quite attractive in themselves; their fault is that they never vary. Even if the old name is kept once you have seen one of the Ember Inn signs you have seen them all.
Below is a sample of the boring variety – the middle picture is of a serendipity moment when I spotted a pub just about to be given the bland makeunder treatment.
This to the left could be called the sublime to the ridiculous.
The famous Dirty Dicks in Bishopsgate London next to which is a corporately identical Pitcher and Piano. Richard Nathaniel Bentley, aka Dirty Dick was the male inspiration for Miss Haversham. His fiancée died and he was so heartbroken he never washed again, or so it is said. The last time I was in the pub the tradition was for the customers to decorate the walls with paper ephemera. Pinned everywhere were bus tickets and cinema tickets and receipts for odd items. There was also a dead cat, which is not unique – I know a pub in Hastings with a dead mummified cat and a rat. I don’t know what is there now in this age of computerisation.
Next is a sample of the Wetherspoon signs I have come across, just to show that all hope is not yet lost.
You could spend ages trying to classify signs and not find a conclusive method. Some painted signs hang off the building, others hang on a pole, others are painted directly onto the wall.
The Telegraph articles speak of the painted board. There are also the wrought metal signs like the Adam and Eve in Petty France and models such as the Greencoat Boy in Westminster. Some paintings are of exquisite quality like the new sign for the Cauliflower in Ilford. The owner is very proud of it and was pleased to hear that I approved. Others like the Thatchers Arms in Warley are in a more ‘primitive’ style but still appealing. Some signs are definitely a print pasted onto the boards. The Cork in Felixstowe has at least two boards on every wall of the pub, two pictures a board is at least 16 pictures and I am certain they are prints as none differ and I can see bits peeling. It is also the only pub sign that I have spotted so far that is signed by the artist – Pete Long. I have also included a stained glass sign at the front of a pub opposite Norwich Cathedral on the grounds that it is very attractive, and that Edith Cavell is a worthy and interesting subject.
Otherwise I have been generally placing signs in categories according to their subject matter – eg work, rest and play, interesting people (that one could run and run) animals, ships and boats and so on.
The commonest pub name in England (sorry to omit Wales and Scotland – they are different countries for this purpose and I don’t go there often) is The Red Lion. There are also plenty of White Lions, Golden Lions, lone Lions, a few Black and Blue Lions, British Lions, and one or two Brown, Silver, Yellow and Green Lions. There is also the sign which started this madness, The Dandy Lion in Bradford on Avon.
The Lion is a very common symbol in heraldry; the Red Lion is specifically associated with John of Gaunt and later King James I of England and VI of Scotland. Others which have become common inn signs are the White Hart which was the personal badge of Richard II, the Bear and Ragged Staff was that of the Earls of Warwick. The Rose and Crown is also royal and English and became popular at about the time the Scottish King James was encouraging the use of his Red Lion. The Rose and Crown hinted at loyalty to the Crown - of England. The Crown speaks for itself, the Crown and Thistle is rarer, the Feathers is the symbol of The Prince of Wales.
Fear not for my health – while I have been in many of these pubs I have not been in them all, nor have I drunk alcohol excessively while taking these photos. What I have done is walk briskly around some of the more interesting parts of London and provincial towns.
The occasional beer.
What could be nicer?
More to come.
If you are interested I have placed links to the photos in larger versions on the photo-share site Flickr with more details. Just click on the mosaic photos and, fingers cross you should be transfered.